Unveiling the Diversity of French Crémant: Sparkling Good Value!
French Crémant is often overshadowed by the more prestigious and well-known Champagne in the category of sparkling wines. However, Crémant is a very diverse wine style and often rivals the best champagnes at a fraction of the price, making it a delicious everyday product to be enjoyed without excuse or occasion. The term crémant denotes some regional French traditional method sparkling wines made outside the Champagne region.
The history of sparkling wine in France traces back to the 16th century, predating even the prestigious Champagne. However, it wasn't until the 19th century that the méthode champenoise, a traditional method of secondary fermentation in the bottle, was perfected, giving rise to the sparkling wine we know today. The permitted grape varieties for the various crémant wine reflect the typical varieties of the regions. However, common to all the crémant wines is whole bunch pressing and hand harvesting with a maximum yield at pressing 100 litres per 150kg of grapes. French Crémants' must spend a minimum of nine months of ageing on lees during the second fermentation in the bottle and a minimum of 12 months of maturation between triage and release, which includes the nine months on the lees. Crémant has a maximum level of alcohol of 13% abv in the finished wine and a minimum of four atmospheres of pressure. Each crémant appellation covered in this article has introduced a top-tier crémant aged longer on the lees before release.
The diverse terroirs (geography and climate) play essential roles in shaping the diversity and character of French Crémant. The diversity of grape varieties also contributes distinct nuances to the final wines. There are eight Crémant appellations in France; I will focus on the three most significant: Alsace, Bourgogne and the Loire Valley. Each expresses a unique combination of climate, geography, and grape varieties. Let’s explore the diversity of French Crémant, through time and terroir, history, production method, and main styles and flavours.
Nestled in the northeast of France, Alsace's geography is a tapestry of rolling hills flanked by the Vosges Mountains, which provide shelter from prevailing winds and rains. This unique setting creates a semi-continental climate with warm, sunny days and cool nights. Such conditions are conducive to slow and balanced grape maturation, enhancing the aromatic complexity and preserving the vibrant acidity that defines Crémant d’Alsace. Grapes are typically grown in fertile planes or cool sites and picked early to retain the acidity and low potential alcohol necessary for quality sparkling wines. Crémant d'Alsace is typically Pinot Blanc-based with medium-intensity of apples, pears and blossom with light autolytic notes (brioche and biscuit). Crémant d’Alsace generally has high acidity and a light to medium body with 8-10g residual sugar. Rose wines are made by short maceration method with 12-24 hrs in contact with the skins. A prestige category was launched in 2012, with a minimum of 75% Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, either separately or together in the blend and a minimum of 24 months of aging on the lees.
Crémant accounts for around 25% of the wine produced from Alsace, and this has been increasing with the increased demand for sparkling wines in general. Crémant d'Alsace's production volume has almost doubled between 2000 and 2014, with 40 million bottles produced in 2020. 72% of the wine is sold in France; the rest is exported.
Just to the south of Alsace and Champagne, the vineyards of Bourgogne are an intricate patchwork draped over gently rolling hills and sun-kissed valleys. A semi-continental climate embraces the vines, delivering warm days and cool nights that ensure a gradual ripening of the grapes. The climate, combined with the clay and limestone soils, contributes to the mineral-driven elegance that defines Crémant de Bourgogne.
The grapes for Crémant de Bourgogne are harvested early to ensure good acidity and low potential alcohol with a maximum yield are 75 hL/ha. The Crémant de Bourgogne blend requires a minimum of 30% Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris, either alone or blended. However, Crémant de Bourgogne white is mainly produced from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with very little Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris grown in Bourgogne or used in the blend.
Crémant de Bourgogne comes in a range of styles, although most are white, dry with high acidity and medium intensity apples, pear and lemon in cooler areas through to riper fruit notes and stone fruit in warmer areas, accompanied by brioche and biscuit autolytic notes. Crémant de Bourgogne is also made in Blanc de Blanc and Blanc de Noir styles. The top-tier Crémant de Bourgogne Eminent requires a minimum of 24 months on the lees, and Crémant de Bourgogne Grand Eminent has even longer aging requirements with a minimum age of 36 months on lees. Crémant de Bourgogne Grand Eminent white are made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the rosé allows the inclusion of a maximum of 20% Gamay.
Crémant de Bourgogne is about 10% of Bourgogne production, doubling since the turn of the century to around 170,000 hL. Cremant de Bourgogne is produced mainly by negotiants and cooperatives, with 40% exported, which continues to rise.
With its sprawling vineyards stretching along the banks of the Loire River, this region is a tapestry of terroirs and microclimates. From the maritime influences near the Atlantic coast to the continental climate further inland, the Loire Valley offers a canvas upon which a diverse range of grapes thrive. In general, sparkling wines from the Loire Valley are Chenin Blanc-dominated with medium intensity and flavours and aromas of apple, pear and citrus with light, tasty autolytic notes (biscuit and brioche). Wines with 2- 3 years of age can develop honeyed notes. These wines have high acidity and are made in a range of styles from brut nature to demi-sec and are mainly mid-priced with a few premium examples.
Sparkling wine production started around Saumur due to the caves being suitable for aging sparkling wines, this article will focus on Crémant de Loire, Saumur Mousseux and Vouvray Mousseux. The cool semi-continental climate with maritime influence from the Atlantic helps to produce grapes with high acidity and low potential alcohol desired for sparkling wine production. Crémant de Loire can be made from a variety of grapes, including Chenin Blanc (making the majority of the blend), Cabinet Franc, Cabinet Sauvignon, Grolleau Noir and Gris, Pineau d" Aunis, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Crémant de Loire is generally fermented in stainless steel, although some oak for top cuvees.
Wines typically spend nine months on the lees for fresher primary-driven styles; however, they can spend up to 24 months on the lees for more autolytic styles. The top-tier sparkling category of Prestige de Loire was launched in 2018 and is brut white from Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with a minimum of 24 months of aging on the lees.
Saumur Mousseux and Vouvray Mousseux are similar to Crémant de Loire, including second fermentation in the bottle and 12 months minimum between triage and release. Saumur Mouseux is a minimum of 60% Chenin Blanc with a maximum of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Rose wines are a minimum of 60 % Cabernet Franc and may contain a maximum of 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Vouvray Mousseux is primarily made of Chenin Blanc, which must make up the majority of the blend and often ins 100%. The other variety permitted is Orbois which must be the minority in the blend. There is also a tiny production of Pet Nat in this area.
The deep limestone caves in the area a perfect for aging these sparkling wines on the lees. Saumur Mousseux and Vouvray Mousseux are equal to the production of Crémant de Loire, and total sparkling wine production is around 13% of Loire Valley wine production.
With the demand for sparkling wines worldwide increasing, French Crémant is gaining popularity in France and around the globe. It captures the essence of diverse regions and is expressed with subtle differences, making an exciting and diverse range of wines to explore. So, the next time you reach for a bottle of bubbles, make it a French Crémant and savour not just the bubbles but the rich tapestry of history, geography, and expertise that fills every glass.