The Evolution and Intricacies of Cava: Spain's Effervescent Marvel
Cava, Spain's signature sparkling wine, boasts a storied history as complex as the bubbly itself. Rooted in the late 19th-century wine regions around Barcelona, Cava has become an international name, proudly holding PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status since 1989. But there's more to Cava than meets the eye—or the palate. Let's delve into the geography, grape varieties, and evolving classifications that make Cava a distinctive beverage in the global wine landscape.
The Taste of Terroir
When it comes to Cava, location is everything. The lion's share of the production — 95% to be exact — takes place in Cataluña's Penedès region. However, some sparkling magic also happens in Rioja and Valencia. These areas contribute unique characteristics to Cava, thanks to their distinct terroirs and climates.
Penedès has a Mediterranean climate where vineyards can be found at various elevations. Grapes are grown between 200 and 800 meters above sea level, with higher altitudes resulting in Cavas with more intense flavours and higher acidity, primarily due to cooler summer nights. The soils here vary from alluvial and clay at lower altitudes to stony clay and granite sub-soils at higher elevations.
Lleida rises to mountainous terrain and has a Mediterranean climate with continental influences. Its vineyards were once barren, but thanks to an irrigation system using Pyrenees water, it's now a viticulture oasis, producing wines with ripe fruit flavours at lower altitudes and fresher notes at higher altitudes.
Tarragona is a low-lying region with a Mediterranean climate, where the Macabeo grapes dominate, giving life to straightforward Cavas designed for early consumption.
Rioja is protected by the Cantabrian Mountains and specialises in Macabeo (locally known as Viura) and Chardonnay grapes. Grapes grown at high altitudes are particularly suited for quality sparkling wines.
The Grapes that Sparkle
Cava primarily employs a trio of indigenous grapes: Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada, although Chardonnay is also increasingly incorporated into blends. Macabeo provides light apple and lemon notes, whilst Xarel-lo offers greengage and gooseberry flavours with herbal (fennel) accents. Parellada usually thrives at higher altitudes, adding finesse and floral notes, while Chardonnay adds body, richness, and finesse. Although only 9% of overall production, Rosé Cava—or Rosado—employs grape varieties like Garnacha, Trepat, and Pinot Noir. Garnacha is fading out due to oxidation issues, while Trepat and Pinot Noir bring strawberry flavours and high acidity.
The Process Matters
Cava harvesting is generally manual for quality-focused, although machine harvesting is gaining ground. Pneumatic presses are utilised for a soft press, thereby limiting the extraction of phenolics. Cava is produced via the traditional method, the same technique used for Champagne. The base wine undergoes a first fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures (14–16°C) to preserve fruit characteristics while inhibiting malolactic conversion to maintain acidity. Once the base wine is ready, a mixture of sugar and yeast, known as the 'liqueur de tirage,' is added to induce secondary fermentation. The wine is then sealed in bottles and stored horizontally in cellars.
After a minimum of nine months for basic Cava or up to 30 months for Cava Gran Reserva, the sediment is removed through disgorgement. Finally, a 'dosage' is optionally added to adjust sweetness levels before corking. The wine is then aged further before release. Recent shifts in the regulatory framework, such as the introduction of Cava de Guarda Superior categories, have to be made from vines that are a minimum of 10 years old, certified grown organically, be traceable from vineyard to bottle, and state the year of harvest to elevate Cava's overall quality and perception.
The Classification Evolution
Initially, Cava had three main categories based on lees aging: Cava, Cava Reserva, and Cava Gran Reserva. However, recent years have witnessed new classifications aimed at elevating the wine's quality and reputation. These new categories raised the bar by adding criteria like organic certification, minimum vine age, and traceability.
Cava de Guarda and Cava de Guarda Superior: These new categories focus on organic viticulture, lower yields, and traceability.
Clàssic Penedès is made from certified organic grapes grown with a minimum of 15 months of ageing on the lees, making DO Penedès the first appellation in the world to offer a category of premium sparkling wines that are 100% organic.
Corpinnat: A breakaway group advocating for 100% organic grapes and stricter production methods. There are three categories with minimum aging on the lees of 18, 30 and 60 months.
Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja: Introduced in 2019, in Rioja, the grapes must be hand harvested, and the wine must be made by the traditional method. There are three tiers: Crianza, aged on the lees for a minimum of 15 months; Reserva, a minimum of 24 months; and Gran Añada, a minimum of 36 months.
Market Dynamics
Cava production is notable for the massive scale of the biggest companies, Freixenet and Codorníu, producing around 75% of all finished Cava. 250 million bottles of Cava were produced in 2019, just under one-third of which went to Spain, and the rest was exported. Production grew rapidly from 1980 to 2010 and has since plateaued. The high-volume export markets are Germany, Belgium, the UK and the USA. While 88% of sales account for basic Cava, the premium categories are slowly gaining market share.
Cava is not just Spain's answer to Champagne; it's a sparkling wine with unique characteristics influenced by geography, grape variety, and production methods. Its evolving classifications demonstrate a concerted effort to raise quality and showcase the nuanced flavours that each Cava bottle encapsulates.